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On a typical evening at the Spicy Cafe in Hurghada, camera phones snapped shots of an unlikely pair: a local man robed in a white galabeya and a Russian tourist clad in a short dress and pumps, caught in mid-dance.
Customers and staff members, and even pedestrians outside the popular waterhole, stop to watch as the man brazenly lifts and twirls the woman in his arms. Two decades after the dissolution of the Soviet Union that lifted a rigid travel ban barring citizens from foreign travel, Egypt has become a popular and affordable destination for tourists from Russia and other post-Soviet states.
Hurghada is swamped with ads, signage and menus written in Cyrillic, while its waiters, touts and taxi drivers haggle and argue in Arabic and Russian. But only in the last decade has an ostensible community of Russian expatriates in Hurghada emerged. An industry built on cheap charter flights and all-inclusive resorts combined with lenient visa restrictions and inexpensive overstay fines has allowed for more frequent travels between Russia and Egypt and temporary to long-term residence.
According to MK in Egypt, a bimonthly newsletter based in Hurghada and an offshoot of the year-old Moscow daily standard, Hurghada hosts the largest number of Russians residents in the country. She and her family moved from Moscow to Hurghada in , where today, their children attend a co-curricular program at a local Russian school where they learn about their Russian heritage, traditions and language. But Russian businessman Andrey Alexandrov claims that Russians have limited rights compared to Germans and any other European community in Egypt.
Russians just break the rule and pay the penalty of LE when they leave the country. Alexandrov and his wife have been residents in Hurghada since and own Famous Bar, one of the only joints that serves Russian cuisine, and where every Tuesday, Russians and their friends convene for a cultural night complete with a Leninist flag, Russian karaoke, comedy, games and door prizes.